July 2008 2008
Hello everyone,
I wish you all, for the coming holidays, a lot of happiness, pleasant discoveries, encounters and sympathy.
I, for one, have continued sailing through the most peaceful atolls in the Tuamotus, such as Amanu and Makemo... but I have celebrated my birthday in a very surprising spot : a few months ago, I met the admiral who commands all the French armed forces in the Pacific, and I explained to him that there is , in the immense triangle of deserted ocean that
stretches between Hao, the Australs and the Gambier islands, only one place where a small boat could find shelter in case of necessity (fatigue, contrary winds, technical problem) : and it happens to be the atoll of Moruroa, (or Mururoa) that remains forbidden to navigation since the nuclear tests that took place there have stopped close to 20 years ago. As the French state is seeking transparency in this field, I suggested that such interdiction be cancelled, and I obtained permission to make a stopover, and it is permitted to hope that in case of need, boats cruising the area will be allowed to find shelter there long enough to settle their problem.
I happened, by chance, to reach Moruroa on the day of my 64th birthday, and I was warmly welcome by the small military group , about 3O persons, that resides on the atoll. A joyful evening has been organized, with a birthday cake, drinks for everyone, Tahitian music, and so on...
I also had a chance to dive into the lagoon, were there has never been much fishing, so it is extremely rich in species of fish. I also visited the atoll, which was home to thousands of workers at the time of the tests. The problem that threatens Moruroa has no relation with radioactivity ( civil scientific teams check permanently the atoll's condition), but the natural invasion of a vegetal species, the casuarina or ironwood, called in Tahitian aito : looking like a pine, it colonizes in a frightening way all abandoned land : the entire atoll has been invaded by these trees, that grow 3 meters per year, and reach 30 meters high, killing all other vegetation. Yet, the wood of the aito is an excellent combustible, , and in our times of each day more expensive petrol, maybe one day these trees that grow effortlessly in the poorest soil, will constitute a riches for Polynesia...
The big modifications coming soon on our website will be effective in September. In the meantime, we continue our navigation, and we send you a little of the peace and beauty of our favorite Tuamotu islands.
Bye bye
Antoin
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